8. The history of jewellery in South America

In the pre-Columbian period, near the northern Andes (Peru, Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela), gold mines were abundant and the art of goldsmithing (the craft of creating objects from precious metals) was highly developed. Because of this, the inhabitants of the area reached a high degree of artistic evolution, making jewellery not only from gold, but combining it with copper, silver and other metals. The oldest products, attributed to the Chavín culture of Peru, date back to 1000 BC.

The Incas of Peru were the rulers of the west coast of South America. Metalworking techniques are thought to have originated here and spread to the rest of the continent. Intricate techniques were used to create masks and jewellery for personal and ceremonial use. While copper was made into masks, bronze was used more to make ornaments, and platinum was mixed with gold to create spectacular nose ornaments. Their metalworking techniques were used to make tiaras, earrings and chest pieces. The Incas were particularly skilled in the art of mosaic and ground turquoise (one of their favourite stones), and coral was often used in intricate designs worn on the body.

One of the most common ornaments was the 'nariguera', a gold ornament hanging from the nostrils and shaped like a ring, with a finely crafted upside-down rolled disc or fan, with exquisite artistic elements. Pendants depicting gods or animals were also commonly used by the elite. Symbols or representations of the gods were worn for fertility and other benefits to the wearer.

While rings were quite rare, the head was the most decorated section of the body. Although these ornaments were made with gold and other metals, feathers and brightly coloured materials were the most important additions. Elaborate designs indicated the wearer's high social rank. Necklaces are also found in this region, often made with a motif of shells in various shapes arranged one after the other or other stylised animal forms.

Other cultures, such as the native Brazilians, used elaborate beadwork to embellish their clothing.

In Colombia we can find the richest gold and mineral deposits, which are still active today. The San Augustin area is possibly the holder of the oldest jewels in the country, followed by Chitcha. The 'Quimbaya' treasure, with over 100 objects found in two tombs, is the most important find in this area.

Although not strictly part of the Andes region, the Coclé region of Panama was strongly influenced by the Quimbaya style of Colombia. The gold pieces were made with precious stones such as emerald, quartz, jade, jasper, opal, agate and serpentine. Nature themes such as leaves, water and flowers were popular in jewellery from the region. Necklace pendants tended to be encrusted with a variety of gemstones and stones in defined patterns.

Amber has captivated thousands of years and can be found in a variety of ornaments, and South American civilizations were no strangers to its existence. There are different types of amber and copal (an intermediate stage between resin and amber), and the latter can be found on 'Hymenaea courbaril' or other tree species in Brazil, Colombia and other South American countries.

Although rare, amber has been found in three locations in South America, each from a different period: Patagonia in Argentina (Eocene), eastern Brazil (Miocene) and French Guiana (Pleistocene). Brazilian amber occurs in Amazonas, Araripe and Recôncavo. Significant fossiliferous deposits have been found in the Pebas formation of Peru (Miocene).

And in South America, amber is known more for its spiritual side, as it is believed to ward off nervousness, protect, bring peace and absorb negative energy. As a talisman, it was used for courage and self-confidence and was believed to bring good luck to warriors in battle. It was also given to travellers to keep them safe on long journeys.